Mezcal

People often call mezcal “smoky tequila.” That sells it short. Mezcal is a whole family of agave spirits, with more plant varieties, more regional traditions, and more variety in the glass than tequila.

What is it?

Mezcal is a Mexican spirit made from agave. Where tequila uses only blue agave, mezcal can be made from many different agave species, some of them wild. Much of it comes from Oaxaca, though several other Mexican states make it too.

How is it made?

In the traditional method, agave hearts are roasted for days in underground pits lined with hot stones. The roasted agave is crushed, sometimes under a big stone wheel pulled by a horse or donkey, then fermented and distilled. That pit roasting is where the famous smoky flavor comes from.

What does it taste like?

Often smoky, earthy, and vegetal, sometimes with fruity or floral notes. The smoke can be a gentle whisper or a full campfire. Different agave varieties taste noticeably different, so two mezcals can be surprisingly unalike.

What are the main styles?

• Joven (young). Unaged, and the style you will see most. It shows off the agave and the smoke.
• Reposado and añejo. Barrel-rested versions, less common, with softer smoke and added oak.
• By agave variety. Labels often name the plant. Espadín is the most common and a good, affordable place to start. Wild varieties such as tobalá are rarer and pricier.

When would you use each style?

Try a good mezcal neat, at room temperature, in small sips. In Mexico it is often served with orange slices sprinkled with chili salt. For mixing, an espadín joven is the usual choice. Use it in place of some or all of the tequila in a Margarita or Paloma, or the gin in a Negroni.

Which mixers work well, and why?

Sweet and tart flavors balance the smoke. Lime, grapefruit, orange, pineapple, ginger, and agave syrup are all reliable partners.

What can you substitute?

Tequila is the closest swap, though you lose the smoke. If you are new to mezcal, start with a drink that is half tequila and half mezcal.

Did you know?

Tequila started out as a regional kind of mezcal, made around the town of Tequila. Today the two are regulated as separate categories. And the worm? Some bottles include a larva as a marketing gimmick, but it is not part of traditional, quality mezcal. You can skip it with a clear conscience.

Try it yourself

Mezcal recipes are coming in a future class. Meanwhile, try a Half-and-Half Margarita: shake 1 oz blanco tequila, 1 oz mezcal, 1 oz fresh lime juice, and 3/4 oz orange liqueur with ice, then strain over fresh ice.